Flat-pack furniture problems usually come from one of four places: the cabinet is not square, the floor is not level, a fixing has been overtightened or omitted, or the unit that should be restrained to the wall has not been anchored correctly. Wobbling and crooked doors are often adjustable. A split panel, stripped cam hole or unstable tall unit needs a different decision.
Start by checking whether the unit is square
Do not adjust every hinge at once. Put the furniture on its final floor position, check that the frame is fully seated and compare diagonal measurements if the design allows. A cabinet that is twisted will make both doors look wrong no matter how carefully the hinges are tuned.
- check that all dowels and cams are in the intended holes;
- confirm the back panel is fully seated and fixed;
- look for a side panel installed upside down or reversed;
- make sure adjustable feet are bearing evenly;
- do not use hinge adjustment to compensate for a badly racked carcass.
Why the back panel matters
On many flat-pack cabinets, the thin back is part of the structure. When it is square and properly fixed, it helps stop the carcass racking sideways. If it was nailed or clipped on while the unit was skewed, the cabinet may stay skewed. Loosening and re-squaring the unit before refixing the back can solve a surprising number of door alignment problems.
Adjusting doors: change one axis at a time
Many concealed cabinet hinges provide separate adjustments for left/right, in/out and height. Make very small changes, close the door and compare the gap. If both doors are low, the problem may be mounting height or a twisted carcass rather than individual hinges.
| Symptom | Likely first check |
|---|---|
| Door gap wider at top | cabinet square and hinge side-to-side adjustment |
| Doors rub in centre | side-to-side hinge adjustment |
| Door sits proud | in/out adjustment or obstruction |
| Whole unit rocks | floor level, feet and frame assembly |
| Drawer front uneven | runner seating and drawer-front adjusters |
| Unit leans forward | floor, feet and wall restraint |
Wall anchoring is a safety issue, not decoration
Tall cabinets, chests of drawers and wardrobes can tip if a drawer is pulled out, a child climbs on the unit or weight shifts forward. Manufacturers such as IKEA provide anti-tip restraints for many products and instruct users to secure furniture to a suitable wall. The correct wall hardware depends on whether the wall is masonry, timber-stud plasterboard or another construction.
Do not attach a restraint to plasterboard with a random plug simply because the supplied strap reaches it. The wall fixing must be appropriate for the substrate. The fixing principles are similar to those explained in the TV wall-mounting guide, although furniture restraint hardware and loads are different.
When a stripped hole can be repaired
Particleboard and MDF do not tolerate repeated over-tightening well. A cam or screw that spins may have damaged the material around it. Some minor fixings can be repaired with a suitable furniture repair method, but a structural connector in badly broken board may no longer be trustworthy. Replacing the affected panel is often better than improvising a larger screw that splits the edge.
Do not force a fitting that does not align
If two holes are several millimetres out, stop. Forcing a bolt can pull the unit out of square or crack a panel. Recheck orientation, part numbers and previous steps. Flat-pack instructions are sequential because an incorrectly positioned shelf or rail early in the build can prevent later parts from lining up.
When a handyman saves time
A handyman is useful when the furniture is large, needs wall restraint, includes multiple doors or drawers, or has to be assembled in a tight room. They can also correct many existing alignment issues and assess whether a damaged panel is repairable.
If the job involves electrical connection, plumbing or structural alteration, it may need a different trade. The guide Handyman vs Plumber vs Electrician helps separate ordinary assembly from regulated or specialist work.
A practical assembly order
- Sort panels and hardware before starting.
- Protect the floor and assemble large units close to their final position.
- Follow the manufacturer’s sequence rather than tightening everything immediately.
- Square the carcass before permanently fixing the back.
- Fit and adjust doors or drawers only after the frame is stable.
- Level the unit on the finished floor.
- Install the specified anti-tip restraint with wall-appropriate fixings.
- Recheck doors after the unit is anchored; the final wall position can change alignment slightly.
FAQ
Why does a wardrobe wobble even though every screw is tight?
The frame may be out of square, the back may not be fixed correctly, or the floor may be uneven. Tightness alone does not guarantee a square structure.
Can I skip the wall strap if the unit feels heavy?
If the manufacturer requires a wall restraint, follow that instruction. Heavy furniture can still tip when its centre of gravity moves forward.
Should I glue all flat-pack joints?
Not unless the manufacturer specifies it or a competent repair method calls for it. Glue can make later disassembly impossible and may interfere with fittings designed to move.